Escape The Tourist Hordes To See The Real Egypt.

Great pyramid of Giza, Cairo, Egypt

Over 5000 years ago the first semi divine Pharaoh united two disparate lands into a country that became so powerful, so distinctive, that it still holds a visceral fascination to the entire world over 2000 years after the last Pharaoh’s occupied their thrones.

Egypt has always held an almost overwhelming allure for modern Western society, from the very first European treasure hunters to the modern day Egyptologists. It has featured in almost every medium from classic literature to modern Hollywood blockbusters and has been the focus of our imagination and attention for centuries. And despite recent overblown safety concerns this fascination shows absolutely no sign of abating any time soon.

My Love Affair With Egyptology.

I got bitten by the Egyptian bug very early on. I have had a fascination with ancient history in general for as long as I can remember and Egyptology was a natural progression of that obsession.

My eternal geekiness as a child and a teenager extended far beyond comic books, computer games and solo games of Dungeons and Dragons (that’s old school Game of Thrones for you uninitiated) because no one would play with me. And this was back when being a geek was still considered uncool long before Big Bang Theory and before the damn hipsters got hold of the culture!

I would spend hours on my own in the library reading about traditional and alternative theories on Egyptian history, learning the established history and devouring as much on the religion and the culture as I could. 

I tell you this so that you know when I travelled to Egypt it was more than just a holiday for me, more than just another backpacking trip. It was the realisation of all the fascination and wonder I had held inside me since I was a boy, the embodiment of all those hours spent in the library poring through old textbooks. It was my pilgramage. My quest.

And it did not disappoint.

From the second I touched down in Cairo at a ridiculously ungodly hour of the morning I felt the familiar euphoric sense of freedom, that adrenaline rush of endless possibility and adventure that usually encompasses me on a backpacking trip, but this time it was much more that that.

I had my backpack on, no one to hold me back and I was about to explore a destination I had dreamed about for years. The possibilities for exploration were endless. This was far more than just independent travel. This was my chance to live my own version of the adventures of the early European explorers I had read about since I was a child, my chance to see firsthand some of the infamous archaeological ruins I had read and dreamed about for so long.

Michael Huxley sitting on the great pyramid of Giza

I Was Indiana Jones!

Okay, maybe I got carried away with that – I didn’t have a fedora and a whip after all – but I did have that same feeling of impending adventure that I was filled with when watching those movies as a young boy.

It was much more than the fact that I could finally see and touch the great pyramids of Giza or explore the ruins of Karnak and Luxor. It was the sense of adventure that simply being there filled me with, as if the ghosts of those early Victorian explorers had never left and were still encouraging me to discover what secrets this land held. The sense that I was here, on my own, and regardless of the very well ingrained package tour infrastructure, I was about to discover Egypt on my own terms.

Independent Travel In A Land Of Package Tours Is Easier Than People Think.

This is not the experience of the majority of tourists who come to Egypt.

Many people head to Egypt on a two week jaunt to Sharm El Sheik, which is technically in Sinai, not Egypt, and spend a few days being bussed around like sheep to the various places of interest.

They never stray too far from their air conditioned coach of course and are cheerfully back by their pool in Sharm by the time the sun sets. Thousands of years of history and culture taken in bite sized chunks, the history and the meaning behind the sites forgotten as they pose for cheesy perspective pictures that look as if they are holding the pyramids in their hands.

That was never going to be for me.

After taking a day to get my bearings, I emerged from my room in downtown Cairo and flagged down a taxi. Cairo seemed to have a certain hue to it at this time of the morning as the glow of the newly risen sun cast a dusty haze over the city, and I warmed to the affable chattering of the driver as I waited to catch my first glimpse of the structures I had waited my whole life to see. The Pyramids of Giza. The symbol of Egypt and the subject of awe and study for thousands of years. No amount of desensitisation caused by years of exposure to the image could prepare me for that first glimpse of the pyramids themselves, or diminish the sense of wonder I felt as I saw flashes of those magnificent structures through the topography of Cairo.

I was awestruck, there is no other way of putting it. Sheer, unadulterated awe.

The driver dropped me off at the entrance gate to the Giza Plateau, a small nondescript patch of land that is all that separates the plateau itself from the encroaching behemoth of the city. The square almost deserted at this time of the morning apart from a few touts and camel herders and a lone cleaner lazily brushing the entrance to the incongruous Pizza Hut that sits between the disheveled Cairene buildings.

I bought my entrance tickets at the booth and waited for the gates to open, being approached by a couple of the touts wanting to sell me horse or camel rides. They weren’t too pushy at all at this time of the morning and a friendly ‘la Shukran’ was enough for them to return to their friends and leave me be.

I was getting used to the strange solitude as I waited to go inside, but then just as the gates were finally being opened by one of the guards a whole herd of coaches arrived at once, bussing the sheep like masses from the resorts in Sharm to their selfie stop destination for the day.

I hurried inside, showing my tickets to the guard and looked back as the tour group leaders purchased tickets en masse for the crowds of package tourists and the touts and camel herders descended on the visitors like vultures on a fresh carcass, far more vociferous in their efforts than they had ever been with me.

I left them to it and returned my attention to the Giza plateau itself. I was here. I had made it. And for at least fifteen or twenty glorious minutes I had the entire place all to myself as the tour groups huddled at the entrance waiting to be shepherded around the site.

I got to see a side of the pyramids that very few tourists get to see, the peaceful solitude of the breathtaking plateau shared with no one but the occasional Egyptian worker or the peaceful rumbling of a horse and cart.

I made the most of my solitary experience and soaked it all in because I knew it wouldn’t last for long, and sure enough as inevitably as the sun was getting higher in the sky, more and more tourists flooded the plateau.

Despite the growing crowds I still felt predominantly left alone as the touts all made a beeline for the massive tour groups like moths to a flame, viewing the walking ATM machines as easy pickings. Apart from the occasional exception they generally left me alone to wander the plateau of my own accord.

Seeing the tourists herded around a very prescriptive path, I veered away from them and walked the stretch of desert to Khufu’s pyramid, walking out into the desert slightly for an even greater sense of solitude before doubling back and exploring Menkaure’s pyramid and the three queen pyramids in more detail. By this time I was never wholly alone of course, often surrounded by countless other package tourists and travellers, especially when clambering inside some of the burial chambers. But I did manage to find some solace by wandering out into the desert or taking the more difficult paths that the tourists generally avoided, but by coming here on my own – independently- I was able to capture at least some moments where I truly felt I was exploring this magnificent country on my own terms.

Exploring on your own terms.

I spent the next few days becoming increasingly familiar with the area around Giza. As well as exploring Cairo more thoroughly, an endlessly vibrant and fascinating city that is never explored enough by the package tour groups. My time in the city was spent simply wandering round the ancient streets, exploring some of the more hidden sites and sitting in various cafes and eateries, getting some shade from the midday sun and taking the time to continue to write my novel. I returned to Giza multiple times and explored the desert region on the outskirts of the plateau, visited different areas of archaeological interest and yes, kept getting drawn back to the pyramids themselves.

It was a singularly blissful experience that eventually even led to one of my favourite travel tales.

Exploring The Rest Of Egypt.

This pattern was repeated numerous times throughout my time in Egypt, from Alexandria to Luxor and beyond. Almost every major site I went to I had time on my own to wander and explore before the tourist hordes descended like locusts, then time alone again as they dissipated back to their air conditioned coaches in the heat of the afternoon.

I always took the time to explore the attractions and the surrounding areas more thoroughly, to stay in the towns and cities long enough to at least get a taste of the culture, to get a feel for the unique pulsing beat of each place. And yes, even avoid the package tourists as much as possible. At the very least I could explore in my own time without tour guides constantly ushering me on or being hounded by touts who found it much more profitable to chase the unprepared tour groups.

Travel tips for Luxor and Aswan Egypt

But it was much more than that. When visiting Egypt you are never truly going to escape the tourism industry – huge swathes of the Egyptian economy rely on it – and you will never get away from the tourist hordes completely.

Everyone wants to see the prime attractions, the great sites that have drawn visitors for thousands of years, and the major attractions will always be busy. You simply aren’t going to escape that fact.

But that is okay, as long as you aren’t part of that it won’t bother you too much.

By travelling independently you still get to see all of those amazing sites but you get so much more too. You get to see parts of Egypt that most tourists never see. You get the time and the opportunity to visit the minor sites that are no less interesting, but just aren’t on the usual quick stop, tick box tourist trail.

You can take your time and really explore the monuments and the sites in more detail, in your own time and at your own pace. You get the opportunity to take a step back from the frenzied tourist culture and meet some of the Egyptians who aren’t working in the tourist industry or their to make money off tourists, you get a glimpse into the real heart of the country, an insight into the culture beyond what any package tourist can ever see.

A Sphinx statue in Alexandria, Egypt

Egypt is a land that is set up for the package tourist, but the independent traveller can still find a place here and in my opinion get a much deeper, richer experience. Independent travel in a land of package tours is easier than people think. All it takes is a bit of knowledge, a bit of confidence and a little bit of effort on your part. Actually, forget that last one. I think travelling through Egypt independently is actually much, much easier than going on a package tour!

So I urge you, when you visit Egypt do so on your own terms. Don’t go with the package tours or the tour groups. Spend some time in Cairo and take some time to explore the city’s many unique facets instead of just going to Giza and the museum then heading back to Sharm. Visit some of the lesser known monuments and museums. Stay at least a few days in a small pension or guesthouse in each town or city instead of getting bussed in and out for a few hours with a coach load of other tourists. Make just a tiny little bit of effort to see this amazing country on your own terms and you will be rewarded tenfold for your efforts.

Did you enjoy this article? I would love to hear your thoughts in the comments section below or on my Facebook or Twitter pages and please feel free to share it with any or all of the social media buttons. If you want to get more great backpacking tips, advice and inspiration, please subscribe to updates via email in the box to your right.

15 Reasons You Need To Visit Alexandria, Egypt.

22 Things You Need To Know Before Visiting Egypt. The Good And The Bad.

A Slower Pace Of Life On The Nile.


How To Avoid The Annoying Touts In Egypt.

Is It Safe To Travel To Egypt?

My Growing Anger And Frustration With Egyptian Tourism.

The Ultimate Guide To Visiting The Pyramids Of Giza In Egypt.

Three Days In Cairo.

Walk Like An Egyptian.

Why Now Is The Perfect Time To Visit Egypt.

Michael Huxley is a published author, professional adventurer and founder of the travel website, Bemused Backpacker. He has spent the last twenty years travelling to over 100 countries on almost every continent, slowly building Bemused Backpacker into a successful business after leaving a former career in emergency nursing and travel medicine, and continues to travel the world on numerous adventures every year.

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Posted in Destinations
26 comments on “Escape The Tourist Hordes To See The Real Egypt.
  1. Where were the last two photos taken? I missed out that part of Giza 😮

  2. hometoitaly says:

    a great adventure for you….i wonder if it is safe for a solo woman to try the same adventure, with all the poor treatment of women even the tour that off ‘armed guard’ convoys are considered only marginally safe

    • Yes it is absolutely, unequivocally safe for women to travel in Egypt as it is for them (and men too) to travel anywhere else in the world!

      I met a few independent travellers during my time there and some of them were even women!

      There is a huge misconception that Egypt is unsafe, it isn’t. Use basic common sense and reasonable precautions and you will generally have no more problems than the occassional tout trying to sell you overpriced tat, annoying, but not necessarily a danger.

  3. Christina says:

    We were in Egypt two years ago but only in Hurghada so we didn´t see the pyramids and other historical sites there. What a great idea to be there before all the other tourists rush in.

    • Such a shame you missed out on all those amazing sites Christina. There’s always another trip though?

      I can understand staying by the pool in a resort if someone just needs a rest for two weeks and heads to the resorts in Sharm or Hurghada, that’s fine and I’m sure they fill that purpose and it works for them. But if you want to visit the real Egypt on another trip, travel independently and avoid the resorts, it will blow your mind! 🙂

  4. Oh those pictures are amazing! I’ve wanted to visit the pyramids ever since I was a kid. This has just re-inspired me! Great post!

  5. Bob R says:

    You had the Indiana Jones look going until the shoes. Indy would never wear white running shoes. 🙂 I haven’t been to Egypt yet but I will definitely be doing it on my own.

    • Haha you are totally right! Practicality overcame fashion on that occasion I’m afraid! ;D You’ll really enjoy Egypt as an independent destination. Thanks for commenting Bob.

  6. Helen says:

    I have been to Egypt before but only on a weeks holiday in Sharm El Sheik, you are so right about feeling herded on those excursions. I feel like I have missed out on so much now that I have read this. Is it safe for a woman to travel to Egypt at the moment though?

    • Yes Helen it is very safe. Don’t listen to the mass hysteria in the media about Egypt being unsafe to travel in, read my safety tips and follow reasonable, sensible precautions and you will be as safe travelling through Egypt as you are in your home city.

  7. HannahontheMap says:

    Sounds like a great experience! I can’t wait to visit Egypt one day, and it’s good to know that you don’t have to do it the way everyone else does!

  8. Sonia says:

    Great post! Egypt does not cease to charm!

  9. I have only been to Egypt as a child and honestly cant remember much. A very goog post. You have a lot of tips for enjoying the sites at the most. Thanks.

  10. Milosz Zak says:

    I think it’s really great that you’re encouraging independent travel to Egypt. Having gone on several packaged tours over the years, I’m so much happier experiencing the country on my own these past few years – not only have I seen more, it’s so much more economical this way. Great article, I’ll be sharing it soon 🙂

    • Thanks Milosz, I absolutely loved Egypt with a passion and I think it is such a shame that most people only experience a fraction of it on an overpriced tour. Thanks for sharing. 🙂

  11. Heather says:

    I totally see your point, for sure. I’ve traveled both independently, and in groups.

    I was one of those tourists on a coach you avoided (we were a small group of 14).

    We went at a time when we were the only coach at Giza one morning (in 2012). There weren’t any others…so our experience was peaceful and beautiful. I have a myriad of photos with no one else in them.

    I actually enjoyed having a guide, who was an Egyptologist, as I learned an incredible amount. Sure, it’s the “easy” way out–I could read it in a book. But as a full-time worker, I’m on vacation and it was fun to get the narrated version. I don’t deny it’s a bit lazy.

    I don’t think this was the intent of your post, but I’d much rather see people on tours in Egypt than not going to Egypt at all. For many (particularly in the United States), it has seemed as if Egypt was/is unsafe. While I am the first to say that the media coverage has been totally misleading, I can totally understand the draw of a organized tour today.

    Knowing what I know now, I would definitely consider going back independently. Do I regret going on a tour? Absolutely not (and it was a great deal, considering the geopolitical circumstances).

    I just don’t think people should be discouraged from going to Egypt on a tour, particularly those with small numbers. Particularly when tourism has taken such a hit in Egypt.

    • Thank you for your comment Heather, I see where you are coming from but I don’t think anyone is being discouraged from going on a package tour. The absolute vast majority of visitors to Egypt ARE package tourists, the package tourism industry relies heavily on Egypt and Sinai as a package destination, it is a huge multi million pound industry. That will not change any time soon. All I am saying is for those with the confidence to do so, there is a much, much better way to see Egypt. (And I am a full time worker too, more than that in fact).

      Travelling independently doesn’t mean you can’t hire guides, it doesn’t mean you can’t join a tour of the museum or any of the sites, the exact opposite in fact. There are many graduates from the University of Cairo who are working as independent guides and are happy to work with independent travellers. It is easy to arrange a fellucca down the Nile or a tour of the valley of the kings or anything else the package tourists do on the ground, and that way the money benefits the locals more too instead of filling the profit margins of Thomas Cook.

      Your experience in 2012 – at a time when so many people were unnecessarily avoiding Egypt due to the moronic media coverage – was not really representative. Normally that one coach at Giza is flanked by a dozen more. Those myriads of photos for the vast majority will be absolutely full of other package tourists. Unfortunately the package tourism industry is very easily scared, it’s like a herd of deer, the slightest hint of danger and it wobbles. That is why tourist numbers have fluctuated in recent years and has only relatively recently recovered. The independent traveller/gap year market is still affected by safety concerns but in general to a much lesser degree. If Egypt had a strong independent traveller market alongside the package tourists, they wouldn’t have taken such a big hit. (By the way, I have been here numerous times, one of which was during the 2011 uprising and I never once felt unsafe)

      The package tourist industry will always be there, the package tourists will always have their all inclusive swimming pool in Sharm and their organised day trips, but by encouraging independent travellers to visit Egypt alongside that industry more people will get to see this amazing country and Egypt will benefit from more visitors. Everyone wins.

  12. Tamara says:

    Hi I want to explore Egypt but more the Nile river can you do both? Nile and pyramided/temples?

    • Absolutely you can! That is the beauty of independent travel. Simply get a cheap flight to Cairo and explore the city at your leisure, take in Giza and the museums then explore the Nile, the delta, upper and lower Egypt as you see fit. 🙂

  13. vasidee says:

    Very little info in this, how should I say …personal experience. Nothing really useful for a traveler in terms of time frame, specifics, tips, etc.

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Hi, I'm Michael! I'm a former nurse turned published author and world travelling professional adventurer! I have spent over twenty years travelling over 100 countries and I want to inspire you to do the same! Want to know more about me? Just click here!

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